I had a request for makeup application to aging eyes, because although it’s easy to co-ordinate to your eye color, sometimes you need to worry about shape instead.
I’m going to start off by letting you know that you should all wear an eye cream; I can’t stress it enough. This will prevent aging in the eye area, whether it has begun or not, and lessen the lines and puffiness in the area which can sometimes cause difficulties in makeup application.
Alright so we’re going to cover a few different areas because this can sometimes be a tough topic, everyone ages differently so doing makeup for mature eyes can sometimes be a bit difficult. So first lets talk about hooded eyes. As we age, sometimes our eyes tend to sink back slightly and we get a bit of a hood over the eye. Here we’re going to want to focus on highlighting and contouring.
So there is a hooded eye. Look like you? Great, now listen up. You’re going to want to avoid any light or shimmery colors above the crease area as this acts as a highlighter making the hood appear even larger. Stick to the deeper colors on the hooded part of the upper and outer eye as that will contour the area making it appear smaller. Make sure to only contour above the crease area. Try deep browns if you have blue eyes, purples if you have green eyes, and brown eyes can honestly go with anything. Next thing you’re going to want to do is highlight the highest point of your brow bone, the inner corner of your eye and slightly above the crease. When applying liner make sure to only use a thin amount as you want this area to stay as open and highlighted as possible although giving a line around the eye accents the almond shape. When applying mascara only apply from the outer lashes to the middle lashes as you want to concentrate on that upward pull. Lastly, if you color in your brows try and give them a bit of an arch as this will “pull” the eye up and make the appearance that it is more open.
Now that the hooded eye is out of the way lets go over crows feet. This is going to be really hard to hear, but the only thing you can do with crows feet is accept them. Unless you’re going to get fillers or E401 treatments, your crows feet are there and they’re going to stay. Applying foundation or cover-up is just going to sink into the wrinkles eventually and actually make them appear worse. So don’t apply any makeup to your crows feet unless you’re using concealer to cover up any discolored areas.
Dark eye circles come next, now this area is usually full of creases so you have to be very careful. Make sure that when applying concealer to the area that you do not stretch the skin, so apply in a patting motion rather than a rubbing as this pulls on the skin. Do not use a foundation because it is too thin and does not have the proper coverage, but a hydrating concealer such as Circle Delete from Jane Iredale. This may work for a lot of you however if you find that your concealer keeps creasing and highlighting the lines, stop using it and try to work on those circles from the inside out (check out my post “Lend a Little Love to your Under Eye Circles“)
Wrinkled eyelids? Avoid shimmery colors and stick to more matte tones. Shimmers draw attention to the crease and accentuate the wrinkles which I know for a fact you do not want. It’s also best to avoid brighter colors like a royal purple or flashy blue. This draws a lot of attention to the eyes and looks wrong on mature eyes; it appears too childish.
Unfortunately your lashes thin out as you may notice, but that doesn’t mean glob on a ton of mascara to try and hide the fact. The best thing you can do is apply more mascara to the root of the lash to highlight the contour of the eyes and apply a thin layer to the rest of the lashes. Heavy mascara can look pretty gaudy on aging women and should be avoided. Try colors like navy or a dark brown rather than the harsh bold blacks. The only time you should do the complete opposite of this (applying a dark mascara to the whole lash) is on eyes that are beginning to droop. The bold lashes will open up the eyes and make you appear more awake.
Now you’re going to focus on your brows. As we age our brows thin and change color from our once luscious gold or brown or deep black to a lighter, thinner version of what once was. This is unfortunately a major sign of aging. A few things you can do is go to a salon and tint your brows, which will give that color back for sure however it won’t give as much thickness back. If you apply eye shadow in a natural color (with no shimmer) along the brow it will make them appear fuller and youthful. When applying the shadow make sure to not just color straight across the brow as this will give you that painted on look. If you use an angle brush and dab on small lines it will appear to be small hairs. Make these lines subtle, and when you’re done go over with a brow brush or clean mascara wand to blend. You could also use a sharpened liner to do this but be careful, and it does take a fair amount of practice.
Now that we’re done with eyes we’re going to focus on the face. As we age our cheeks start to hollow so applying a sweep of blush across the cheekbone only accentuates the fact that our cheekbones are more pronounced. Avoid this by applying a cream blush to only the apples of the cheeks rather than a whole sweep straight back to your ear. This will still accentuate the cheek and make you appear healthy and youthful without making your cheeks look sunken. Why a cream blush? While the powder blushes tend to sit on the top, the cream blush gives a dewy glow that seems to be coming from inside the cheek.
When applying face powder, try to wear minimal as it has the possibility of bringing out those fine lines. As the day wears on your makeup will sink down into your lines and define them further, making them appear even deeper than they do. When applying face makeup try to make your application as thin as possible and try to use a product that is hydrating. Jane Iredale loose minerals work very well for aging skin as well as Sweet Leilani corrective skin care cover foundation.
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions!